This is explained more fully at this article. Voilà, you’re lifting yourself with a 3:1 mechanical advantage! (This might appear to be a 2:1 with a redirect, but because you are the one doing the pulling, it's actually at 3:1. You have been warned, be careful!ġ - Put your foot in the double runner foot loop, and slide the prusik as far up the rope as you can.Ģ - Stand in the foot loop, at the same time pull down on the rope that’s redirected through the carabiner. Consider using a device such as the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide, specifically made for smaller diameter ropes. If using a skinny rope, be extra careful! Matching your ropes to the proper size belay device is always important, especially in this case. Be sure and test this under a controlled environment with your preferred rope and belay device before you ever try it for real! (This is why you should never use a device like this to rope solo.) This causes them to either jam together and you can't move the rope at all, or even worse, the strands become reversed, and you will fall / slide under load. Under even a small load, the rope strands can become inverted. I was easily able to put this into failure mode with a single strand rappel using an old style Black Diamond ATC Guide, and an 8 mm rope. This technique can fail if you use a skinny rope and a large belay device! Instruction from a qualified professional is highly recommended when learning any new belay technique. Alpinesavvy offers ideas and information, not advice.
Using a belay device in this manner is not explicitly approved by any manufacturer, as far as I know. First off, a few disclaimer and cautionary notes.
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